At the SCCS and SCHEER meetings (30–31 October 2025), the Commission confirmed a direction of change that will fundamentally reshape how the safety of cosmetic ingredients is assessed in the EU.
Link: https://ec.europa.eu/newsroom/sante/newsletter-archives/68643
The agenda included new opinions covering:
- 2 hair dyes,
- 2 fragrance substances,
- 1 preservative,
- 1 UV filter,
- 2 nanomaterials.
However, it is not the list of ingredients (details below) but the political context that raised the greatest concern:
👉 The “One Substance, One Assessment” strategy is entering a decisive phase.
👉 From 2027, the work of SCCS and SCHEER is planned to be transferred to ECHA, which would mark the end of independent scientific committees operating under the European Commission.
⚠️ The industry is concerned whether this shift could make the assessment process more administrative than scientific, and less aligned with real exposure-based risk assessment.
In the background, there is a visible shift away from consumer safety science towards chemical risk management in the spirit of REACH.
This may translate into new barriers and an overly fast legislative pace for the industry.
Key mandates from the meeting agenda
(Agenda link: Agenda SCCS)
New mandates were submitted for:
- Nanometric forms of silica and their further re-evaluation in light of new data:
Hydrated Silica (nano) (CAS: 7631-86-9 / 112926-00-8),
Pyrogenic Silica (nano) (CAS: 7631-86-9 / 112945-52-5),
Silica Silylate (nano) (CAS: 68909-20-6 / 102262-30-6),
Silica Dimethyl Silylate (nano) (CAS: 68611-44-9).
Details: Silica mandate. - Acetophenone (CAS: 98-86-2), a fragrance component – request for a CMR derogation.
The Commission tasked SCCS with assessing whether acetophenone—potentially classified as Repr. 1B—is safe in cosmetics only as a trace constituent of Natural Complex Substances (NCS) up to 100 ppm.
The industry is not defending it as an intentional ingredient; SCCS is to determine whether such low levels are acceptable and whether additional hazards may apply.
Details: SCCS mandate for Acetophenone. - Cresyl methoxycinnamate (CAS: 431067-87-7), 2-methylphenyl 4-methoxycinnamate (MMPC), proposed as a new UV filter.
Currently not regulated under the Cosmetics Regulation. The industry submitted a dossier supporting its use up to 3% in sprays and 6% in lotions and creams. Notably, the substance is already permitted in countries such as Japan.
Details: SCCS mandate for MMPC.
Final SCCS opinion published – Tea Tree Oil
On 30 October, the final SCCS opinion on Tea Tree Oil (Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil) was published.
SCCS concluded that Tea Tree Oil is safe for use in cosmetics for adults as an anti-seborrhoeic or antimicrobial agent at the following maximum concentrations:
- 2% in shampoos,
- 1% in shower gels and facial cleansers,
- 0.1% in face creams,
provided that:
- the composition complies with ISO 4730:2017,
- no aerosol forms are used,
- stability in the finished product is ensured, and
- the updated ISO 4730:2025 standard on the enantiomeric profile of α-terpineol is taken into account.
The Committee classified TTO as a moderate contact allergen. Other product categories (e.g. foot creams, nail products) were not assessed.
Draft opinions open for public consultation
Preliminary opinions were also published stating that:
- BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole, CAS: 25013-16-5)
is safe at 0.07% in rinse-off and leave-on skin products (excluding oral care and aerosol products). - Cannabidiol (CBD, CAS: 13956-29-1)
is safe at 0.19%, with THC impurities up to 0.00025%, in cosmetic products for skin use and oral care (excluding inhalation exposure). - Thimerosal (CAS: 54-64-8) and phenylmercury salts
as preservatives in eye cosmetics – unsafe, with potential genotoxic effects. - Basic Blue 99 (CAS: 68123-13-7)
in non-oxidative hair dye formulations – unsafe, potential genotoxic effects. - Basic Brown 16 (CAS: 26381-41-9)
in non-oxidative hair dye formulations – unsafe, potential mutagenic effects.
Additional initiatives
Formal requests were submitted for:
- Scientific advice on microsilver and its dermal exposure route (Scientific Advice on Microsilver – skin penetration),
- Guidance for the hairdressing sector (Hairdresser Social Partners recommendations), addressing chemical exposure and OSH aspects,
- An update of the nanomaterials guidance.
Upcoming SCCS opinions to watch
Preliminary opinions are expected for:
- Heliotropin (new study results expected in February 2026),
- Salicylic acid esters (assessment of aggregate exposure to salicylic acid resulting from the use of different salicylate esters in cosmetics).
The outcomes of SCCS work clearly signal that another update of the annexes to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 is approaching.
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